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Batt Insulation Installation

Cheap material, and the one most often installed in a way that throws half of it away.

Injection foam filling a closed wall cavity through drilled holes, in three stages 1 · Empty cavity Studs at 16 inches 2 · Drilled and injected One hole per cavity, per storey 3 · Full and closed Plugged and made good

Cavity, studs and blocking

The three faults we find

Batts perform to label only when they fill the cavity completely, touch the sheathing, and are not compressed. Open up poor batt work and it is nearly always the same three things.

  1. Compressed behind wiring instead of split around it. A batt squashed to half its thickness has lost most of its R-value at that point.
  2. Gaps at the ends of the bay, top and bottom, where the batt was cut short.
  3. Nothing detailed at penetrations — boxes, pipes, the junction with a window frame — so air moves straight past the insulation.

Fixed, batts are an excellent and inexpensive assembly. We friction-fit to the bay, split around services and seal the air barrier at every penetration.

When this is the wrong answer

Not in a closed cavity, which is an injection job, and not directly against masonry in a basement without continuous rigid or closed-cell foam behind them, or you will condense moisture out of sight.

Common questions

What R-value do I get in a 2x4 wall?

Around R-14 with a high-density batt, before accounting for framing. In a 2x6 wall, around R-22.

Related

Where to go next

Book an attic check

Someone goes up, measures, and photographs it.

You get the depth, the tier, the dollar figure and the photographs, whether or not you go ahead with us.